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The Single Conversion Thread - 3.0


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#81 Reuben

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 6:41 AM

It's been done plenty of times on the A's, I just don't know how...

And don't run single turbo on a TT ECU, that's just stupid. Almost as stupid as running an N/A on a turbo ECU...
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#82 Oscar

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 6:48 AM

If you're smart about it, it isn't entirely stupid. I have been discussing it with Kamineko, although the text messages stopped so I assume he thinks I'm fucking mental.

Pull your handbrake just enough so the light comes on. That sends the ECU into full race mode.

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#83 Reuben

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 11:59 PM

Not hard to do (think you're mental). But good on yah for trying :P

Yeah it'll run, the trick is to trick it into thinking all is fine, I imagine the diff pressure sensor will be the hardest one to fool, maybe you could plumb the vac lines from the solenoid box to give it fake readings. Rather than use the secondary ex valve solenoid to to its job, use it to feed manifold pressure to the sensor. That sort of shit. Build a mental image of what each solenoid does, and how you can use them to trick the relevant tt sensors.
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#84 DacerX

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Posted 13 July 2014 - 1:54 AM

id just reloom the car
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#85 Reece

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 11:46 PM

well were to start...

had a 96 rsb (ej20r) with single turbo conversion but it never really ran right... well that car is dead now

have picked up a 95 rs twin turbo with the ej20h engine

now this car has a 4 plug 7c ecu so cant use the 6s that was in the rsb as that was 3 plug...

is it possible to use the ej20h, single turbo it and use a z4 or other 4 plug single turbo ecu with ej20h wiring?

#86 Reuben

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 5:44 AM

Rebuild your 20R.
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#87 Reece

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 10:12 AM

its rebuilt could just drop it in but the loom is different, been looking for a 4 plug to 3 plug adapter but to no avail

#88 Reuben

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 11:48 AM

Be aware there are differences with the 20H that are undesirable in your case. They are higher compression, and the heads do not flow as much, the cams are not to the same spec, and if its the model with lines on the rocker, they are hydraulic lifters. The 20R on the other hand is the same head cast as the EJ20K WRX and STi motor, has the STi cams, the 6S which won't like the high compression 20H also runs the larger body orange air flow meter, and yellow injectors.

I like old hydraulic engines, they south amazing and hold a special place in my heart, but the 20R is technically better, and you will be doing yourself a great disservice by not rebuilding it and sticking with the 6S. By being going cheap, you're fucking with the cars mojo, and robbing yourself of power.

I honnestly reccomend you rebuild your 20R. And Find out why the car 'never ran right', and fix that too, or you risk blowing the next one up.

Beast has done 60,000 k's since I wrote this thread, has never had any single conversion or electrical related issues, and has been a charm, he also moves like an STi should. This behaviour from the Car is within your grasp, reach out and grab it.
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#89 suspect

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 2:28 AM

Hey guys,

So i've been searching for awhile now and trying to find out where all these pipes go, thousands of photos later and still can't figure it out, so was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. As i've got single turbo and twin turbo parts all joined together.. it's a bit of a Frankenstein.

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So I guess the A, B and C join together via a T.
E - Is some sort of air/intake line which I can't for the life of me find where it goes to.
G - Obviously is the water line which I can't find where the other end of this goes either!

am I missing pieces?

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Does this somehow go into the intercooler? (i've got the standard GTB intercooler with WRX Y piping attached.) but there are no extra hoses.
and can't find the female plug for the sensor on the top of the intake manifold..

such a n00b for subarus :(

#90 yellowsub

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 3:14 AM

bloody hell mate lol
first thing is that sensor on the intake dos,nt go there lol that hole is ment for your brake booster line
the hose that comes out over the drivers side is for your blow off valve if u wont to vent back into the intake
the sliver lines that u are pointing at go to your rocker covers and the black line beside that needs to t off to your crank case breather and then goes to your intake there should be matching ruber lines that u can use
and the little vac port on the intake needs to go to your fuel regs so u need to run a vac line between them and run a t joiner that goes to that vac port the
were abouts are u bassed as someone might be local to come help u
swing me a tex 0278125117

#91 suspect

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 5:33 AM

haha told you it was a mess, I thought nothing of it as there was a little sensor on the original one, this is what has me confused as I have a box full of parts which are a miss match between the legacy and a WRX.

located in Hawke's Bay and nobody knows anything about single turbo conversions here :(

#92 yellowsub

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 6:08 AM

haha told you it was a mess, I thought nothing of it as there was a little sensor on the original one, this is what has me confused as I have a box full of parts which are a miss match between the legacy and a WRX.

located in Hawke's Bay and nobody knows anything about single turbo conversions here :(


tex me 0278125117

#93 Reuben

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 10:06 AM

Haha, oil pressure switch on the manifold! I love it! This could go places...

Hokay, c is s vac line that goes direct to f. F is your fuel pressure regulator. But I see you've done a split girl rail, so leaving it at that would blow the engine up. There should also be a pressure regulator on the other side, so, say we call drivers regulator f1, then the passenger side is f2. I did put pics of how that works on the thread, but basically you need to run a vac hose from f1 to f2, and in the middle put a tee piece to c.

E is part of the pcv system. That goes to the big tee price on the block under the turbo outlet (it's obscured in the pic).

D is the pipe that goes to the rocker cover breather, known as the right rocker cover breather hose if you're asking a wrecker.

G is your turbo coolant return hose (flow of coolant is pushed by the water pump at the bottom of the engine upwards). This hose goes to your coolant top rank. Turbo to top tank water hose for the wreckers.

A goes to B, with a tee off to the boost control solenoid if it's a 2-port solenoid. A and B both go to the solenoid if it's a 3-port. If you have a 2 port solenoid, you need a restrictor pill in there. I hope like fuck you still have the original turbo vac hose! (For that turbo)

The lower pipe in pic 2 is your blow off valve return.

Have a look at these pics.

This first one will also show you where the oil pressure switch should live, it's with the two coolant sensors front and centre on the top of the block.
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IMG_9865 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr

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IMG_9866 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr

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IMG_9867 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr

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IMG_9869 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr

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IMG_9870 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr'

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IMG_9872 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr

Do note my vac line system is unique to my setup. I have a 4-port HKS boost control solenoid, and extra sensors.

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IMG_9881 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr

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IMG_9887 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr





I strongly suggest you do some light googling for simple things like 'Subaru turbo vac line layout' and things like that.
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#94 suspect

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 2:09 AM

ahh yes sorry these were old photos I had sorted out most of these prior. The only thing I couldn't work out was the coolant for the turbo, which I couldn't find where it went.. until I saw your photo, I hadn't put the water expansion tank thing in.. makes so much more sentence. haha thought that was some sensor for the intake system as the other intake manifold had nothing on it and the sensor was clean as.

I strongly suggest you do some light googling for simple things like 'Subaru turbo vac line layout' and things like that.


That helped alot i have been searching for 'ej20 turbo diagram' but just showed me a whole lot of bloody turbos and crap.

Only really stuck on a few hoses under the intake manifold, but should be able to figure it out with the photos above.

Thanks,

#95 Reece

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 9:38 PM

back again attempting to single turbo a second time, ej20h out and ej20r in

ej20r rebuilt and single turbo'd (vf30)
yellow injectors
split fuel rail mod
coilpack and ignitor mod
orange label maf -origional blue maf has a 5 wire plug with 4 pins, orange maf has a 3 pin plug but which of the 5 wires do i use?

now the biggest biggie is the wiring... trying to run a ej20r with 4 plug wiring to a 3 plug ecu. I made a adapter from 4 plug to 3 plug but was damn hard trying to find ecu pinouts and think Ive messed up somewhere. I used this 7c ecu diagram and this 6s ecu diagram and kinda spliced them together

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everything is done now its just not starting I think due to wiring, coil pack has power but possibly cam and crank sensor wiring is wrong, maf wiring isnt done

#96 Reuben

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Posted 28 February 2015 - 10:50 AM

Oh god, running a 3-plug engine and ecu on a 4-plug loom. Bugger that, the looms are annoyingly different. But sadly it's no harder than going down the 4-plug single route, the BG 4-plug loom is a rather strange hybrid of both styles! Good luck, should be quite fun getting it going!

I'd be focusing my attention on the ignitor, and sensor sheilds, for a 4-plug twin to 3-plug single. Don't forget to adjust your TPS too. Voltages required should be in the service manuals.
Posted Image


<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#97 Reece

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Posted 04 March 2015 - 1:12 AM

would it just be easier to swap a impreza 3 plug loom into the legacy

#98 DacerX

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Posted 04 March 2015 - 2:30 AM

dont do that, thats just a dick move. If you going to reloom get a GTB rev b- loom. I have seen the impreza one done and it was a bastard for some of the accessories.
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#99 Reece

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Posted 08 March 2015 - 1:36 AM

there was loads of gtb's breaking for spares last year and now theres just nothing, no legacys or imprezas anywhere

#100 Reuben

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Posted 08 March 2015 - 3:34 AM

Getting an Impreza loom to work will be a nightmare. Your only option is rev b or c manual GT.
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!




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