Start of an epic project.... I hope.
Posted 07 April 2016 - 12:28 AM
This BC was in chch, where I live, and was in amazing condition. The downside was it was a 1.8 and FF. However I'm getting into the engineering scene and modifying may not be an issue when my apprenticeship is done.
So I have a 1.8 ti-s. It's awesome. The old guy just looked after it and garaged it so everything is in great condition. Few bumps and scrapes which I'd love to fix but they are body issues and that's money I don't have atm.
To start with I want to do basic upgrades to the sound system. I don't know about the parcel shelf and how to remove it.
Second there is an annoying high pitched rubbing noise coming from the back (I think parcel shelf). I need....NEED to fix this and don't know how.
The clutch engages at the very end of the.... stroke, compression? Prob needs to engage earlier for some wiggle room.
Suspension could be done and mags too but I want to keep them from legacy's for insurance purposes atm. Later.... not so much
Transmission and 4wd will need to be done too. I want a 4wd. I don't know much about converting a FF BC to 4wd apart from the fact that mine isn't and needs a few bits to do it. I also noticed my fuel tank is prob in the way of a rear diff so that could be fun.
Big ideas are def the ez30 swap then turbo. I don't need serious power but 400hp is enough lol. I'm prepared to put time and money and blood into this. Not important now but info is good.
All in all this will be a car that I will keep till I die. I'm a car lover and I'm serious about it.
Posted 07 April 2016 - 2:23 AM
There's a few coming up from the South Island.
Good luck with the rebuild plenty of expertise in here to help you!
Posted 07 April 2016 - 10:08 PM
I'll dump some info here to help yah out, and don't forget, if you have any questions, any at all, don't hesitate to ask! Fortunately for you all BC chassis are functionally the same. I've found that maybe the BC3's and BC2's might be a bit softer, but I think this is probably subframe related, and not chassis related, so when shopping for subframes, make sure they are from a turbo subie, later model the better (BH5D or GDB front subframs are what you want). To convert to AWD will be resonably straight forward, IIRC, yes you will need to change the tank.. you will also need to change the box, too much faffing to add a centre diff onto a FWD box when you can pick up a turbo box for cheap these days. You will also need the rear subframe (GD impreza (00-09) is best, but most will work), the rear laterall arms, and trailing arms, the rear hubs-axles-diff, and rear struts as the clavice is different. When chosing hubs, again, stick with turbo gear, you don't want drums as the hubs are different. Regarding driveshafts, in the Subaru world, wagon and sedan are the same length, but auto and manual are different lengths. You also need to stick to your generation, so the only 4WD driveshafts that will work will be manual first gen wagon or sedan shafts. Does not matter if turbo or no turbo, only thing that matters is that it's manual and first gen legacy.
Ideally to make it affordable, just find a crashed turbo something, ol BG, or WRX or something, so you can get a complete pack of box, diff, axles, hubs, subframe etc. Only thing you won't be able to use from a donor car unless it's a first gen, is the driveshaft of course. Worry about finding nice, stiff, late model subframes later, they cost $$$'s and are not easy to find.
Lastly, stay away from any BE/BH (thrid gen), their parts will not work on a BC, they have a totally different rear end with a multi link suspension setup, so subframes, hubs, struts etc will all be incompatible. Only thing that is usable is the rear diff, but you won't want one, they are weak as glass. Their front suspension is all good though, they have alloy arms in the trubo models which are stiff as heck, and their front subframes in the rev D model are re-enforced and cross braced.
Now through that whole info dump there, I've mentioned sticking with parts of turbo cars is the best way to go. And it is. But not the only way to go... Blighter is mostly built out of N/A donor parts. The front subframe is 250T, the rear subframe is BC3 AWD stock, the diff, box, and driveshaft is N/A, the only turbo bits in my driveline are the rear hubs and brakes of a BC GT, and the front alloy control arms. So if there is a donor BG9 250T or something that pops up for dirt cheap with a blown head gasket, you can use all the gear off it other than the driveshaft.
<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.
<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!
<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!
Posted 10 April 2016 - 2:02 AM
Ahh I need to take my door panel off the drivers side. Any advice for not breaking the handle plastic? I can't seem to find anything about it anywhere. It's the only thing holding the door on atm the rest is unscrewed and popped but the door opening plastic stuff.
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