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#1 themonkeyman

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 7:35 AM

My bc no go has spark has fuel has compression yet has no bang. Was going fine then wouldnt go next day. Have changed tps and plugs and coils still no go. Havent tryed afm yet as I dont have one on hand.
Suggestions would be greatly appreciated

#2 boostin

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 7:46 AM

Checked fault codes? You sure it has good fuel pressure?
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#3 themonkeyman

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 4:32 AM

Not checked codes yet pump is runing and I wired it to battery for constant power just incase still no go. Ima try a new pump tonight

#4 Reuben

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 9:56 AM

If you have spark, that rules out cam and crank sensors, coils, and ignitor. If you have fuel, that's a couple of fuses, relay, and pump ruled out.

Test for voltage at the injectors (what you are looking for I don't know), and the signal from the water temp sender. A bad afm does not affect start, just everything else. A bad temp sender can make start difficult to the point of having to sit on the starter for a long time (have heard up to 30sec) before it'll fire up. Remember to test the signal voltages to the ecu at both the sensor and the ECU to rule out sensor signal wire breaks
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#5 themonkeyman

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 4:46 AM

I conected the wires to run for codes and the cel just blinked 1s continuesly I assume this means everything is fucked lol.
I need to find another ecu to try.

Thanks for the ideas ruben I have 12v at the injector plugs and none on the signal but I didnt try cranking the engine as my multi meter has the slowest refresh ever.
Fuel pressure seems low it was at 23psi in the soft line by after the filter so im guna replace the pump anyways.

#6 themonkeyman

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 4:54 AM

Stupid fone

#7 Drunkenmonkey

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 6:20 AM

you do have the fuel lines around the right way? tank- filter- injectors-reg-return to tank
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#8 Reuben

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 10:40 PM

Blinking steady means no codes, it's a good thing to see, means its not a sensor issue. And no multimeter has a screen refresh fast enough to catch ecu signals, it should just even out a number for you, basically any number is good. I like the fuel lines backwards idea, I've done that one before :s
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#9 themonkeyman

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 4:25 AM

I never had the fuel lines off anf was running fine like that beforehand. I may see if my analog multi meter will flick with the pulses of the injectors

#10 themonkeyman

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 3:42 AM

Update
Still not runing so far iv replaced the coolant temp sensor the tps the afm the coils the fuel pump the spark plugs and iv also run ground wires from the battery to the ecu ground and the intake manifold.

All coils are good and have spark its got between 145 and 155 on all cylinders its clearley geting fuel cause the plugs are always wet qhen I pull them out.

Im just about out of ideas im going to try a different ecu to see if it helps but other than that its got me by the balls any ideas would be much appreciated

#11 boostin

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 5:52 AM

When you crank the engine, does the check engine light go out? Or does it stay on?
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#12 Reuben

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 10:17 AM

Well, lets think about the basics. If there is spark, and there is fuel, only a few things can stand between it and running. Either the mixture is too rich or too lean, or the spark is on the wrong stroke.

Have you done anything to the car to get it to spark on the wrong stroke? Touched the cambelt, or timing pulley or sprocket?

Also, it is possible for ecu's to just die. Have you tried a spare yet (though having spark indicates that it's functioning)? Fuel pressure regulator failed?
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#13 themonkeyman

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 10:38 AM

Boostin the engine check goes out as normal.
Reuben Iv done the cambelt and such but its been going since then I dont have an ecu on hand to try. Im tryna con my friend into leting me use the one from his v1 wrx but he nos nothing about cars and seems to think that if I remove it from his car it will be destroyed forever

#14 themonkeyman

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 10:44 AM

Tomorrow's list of trys
Fpr from spare gtb fuel rails
Ecu
Check I have coils pluged in the correct way for the 15th time
Check gas (there was 1/4 tank but I found it with the gas flap openabout 10 mins ago and my dog had a blood soked shoe)

#15 Reuben

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 11:09 AM

Subarus are racists, whites go first. Easy way to remember that either the plugs for cyl 1 and 2 are write, or lighter than the rears, or they have a white marker pice of electrical tape wrapped around the wire. I have also seen in some cases where neither mark was there, but instead a tape on each wire had the cyl number printed on it. It's always a good idea to replace the bit of white electrical tape if its old and falling off. Also, all of the above applies to the injectors too.

Quick question, does having the injectors go on the wrong stroke (plugs mixed up) affect running at all, somewhat, badly, or make it impossible to run?
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#16 themonkeyman

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 9:23 PM

I doubt it would run or it would backfire and carry on like a doosh bag and wet the plugs up real bad

#17 boostin

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 10:14 PM

Unplug something, like cam or crank sensor, and crank it and see if you get a fault code.

What did you do to the car in the days or weeks before it stopped running? Just wondering if a connector somewhere has come undone.
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#18 themonkeyman

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Posted 16 June 2014 - 12:27 AM

I changed the sparkplugs about a week before it died I may also try a different engine loom. Yay brittle hoses

#19 Drunkenmonkey

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Posted 16 June 2014 - 6:01 AM

so it was running then just stopped??

have you checked every ecu pin thats ment to have 11-13V does?
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#20 themonkeyman

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Posted 16 June 2014 - 7:00 AM

Yup was going perfectly then went to go to work in it the next day it wouldnt go.

Havent checked for voltage at ecu was kinda avoiding having to do that haha.

My suspension was corect and my 1/4 tank of gas turned into no gas somehow so I put $40 of bps finest in and its still doing the flooding thing.

Will a standard gt ecu run yellows? as I have no Grey's on hand to swap out




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