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Suspension Worn Parts Replacement


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#1 G2.

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 9:32 AM

Hi Guys

okay I've read up some on threads here on various suspension bits etc, I need some confirmation and/or recommendations

the car will mainly be a daily driver with the odd track session so with that background this is what I plan to do

1. Replace steering rack bushes with whiteline ones, can someone tell me what size they are for 89 version... 25mm or 30mm?

2. Replace Sway Bars 24mm Front & 22mm Rear, besides whiteline any other brands and or go another size?

3. Replace Sway Bar links with Nolathane type or stick with Whiteline? which is the best place to purchase these

4. GC8 Coilovers, assume no issues with fitting and should just bolt in?

have I missed anything and also is it worth replacing engine mounts and gearbox mounts while I'm at it. I've heard you can get the STI square engine mounts, is there really any difference between that and the factory version?

Sorry for the long list of questions... just want to get the correct bits and save myself from mis-information & buy incorrect parts as it will be a couple of months before I start to put these replacement parts on.

Thx Heaps

#2 Drunkenmonkey

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 3:07 PM

There is a big difference in engine mounts factory bc are oil filled and tear easy, sti are solid rubber and reduce a lot of movement
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#3 boostin

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 9:15 PM

It's not that they tear easy, it's that they're 3 centuries old and been subject to oil leaks!

Measure your steering rack and check. You never know if it's been swapped for a different one before.

Any aftermarket sway bar and links is ok. Try a few wreckers for options.
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#4 G2.

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 3:17 AM

sweetas thx Guys

had no idea factory mounts were oil filled, always thought they were solid. Will defo get onto a solid mount then :)

#5 boostin

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 3:57 AM

It's only the round ones, and they're silicone filled, not oil. It's a way of damping vibrations and movement.
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#6 Reuben

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 7:29 PM

BE/BH engine mounts are very solid, and easy to get, they're a good option. Also look into alloy front control arms, they are stiffer, and will remove the need to get new front saw bar links, as they run a balljoint style one, which is stronger again, than the white line/nolathane ones. 2 birds one stone.
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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#7 G2.

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Posted 10 March 2015 - 10:16 AM

will this kit work on BC5?

http://www.ebay.com....E-/380783803834

#8 DacerX

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Posted 10 March 2015 - 6:04 PM

most of it will, but measure rack mounts as said, and depends on what swaybar/rear end you have in your BC if its the C link design or the shitty first gen design
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#9 byronGeoth

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Posted 04 May 2019 - 7:16 AM

Failed MOT on worn/defective ball joint offside front/outer/lower Seen these for around ?15-20 but is the replacement a big job?

#10 DCVR

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Posted 06 May 2019 - 10:00 AM

Failed MOT on worn/defective ball joint offside front/outer/lower Seen these for around ?15-20 but is the replacement a big job?

 

Not a big job at all have a search thru the forums to see if anyone's posted up a walk thru


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#11 Reuben

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 9:29 AM

https://partsouq.com...ll?q=20206AJ000

 

Easy as!


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<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!




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