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Failed WOF, would like advice on few things


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#1 Scoobydoo

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 4:58 AM

So the few things I'd like advice on what I failed on are:

1: Both inner steering rack ends
2: Rear Sway Bar link bushes


There were a few other things, but I can deal with those.

These were also noted items:

1: L/R axle seal leaking
2: Front Inner CV Boots were split
3: Trans oil leak


What I'd like to know, is what would be the normal way to remedy these items? Particularly with the Saw bar links - easier to just get replacement links rather than the bushes?

Also, easier to just replace the front axles to remedy both the seals and CV Boots issues?

And what's a Trans Oil leak? I'll also get the answers from the mechanic who did the check as well, but just would like some advice from here as well.

Also... who here has hookups for parts? I'm going to need a few items :)

#2 boostin

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 5:00 AM

What car are we talking about?
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#3 Scoobydoo

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 5:11 AM

Ah... 1995 Impreza WRX Gravel Express

Chassis code: GF8-017451

#4 boostin

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 5:31 AM

Ah right. Well rack ends, inner tie rod ends, whatever you wanna call them, prob about $30 each from Repco/BNT/Autostop etc. Do the boots at the same time. They should only be $10 each. The rear sway bar links would be a bitch to replace bushes on, so yeah, just slap new links on. Usually there's a few alloy upgrade ones on Trade Me. New ones from Subaru are around $100 each, and alloys are usually about that for a pair.

CV boots, maybe $20 each? Again, Repco/BNT/Autostop etc.
LR axle seal, they have a carrier that holds the seal, but the carrier seals to the diff case with an o-ring. It's normally this o-ring that leaks. Just do the o-ring at the same time as the seal. Get these from Subaru, prob $40 for both.
Trans leak will probably be the pan seal and/or the wiring harness o-ring. The pan can be taken off, cleaned and re-ThreeBonded on. The harness o-ring, not so much. Just leave it if it's not too bad. Attempting to fix it will open one massive Pandora's Box of worms.

Labour all additional. If they charge much more than about 1.5 hours to do the WOF items, question it. As for the rest, maybe another 3 hours?
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#5 Scoobydoo

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 7:15 AM

Ok, cheers for that info. There is one other thing that I didn't mention was an oil leak onto exhaust which they think is coming from the rocker covers or the sump. Now we all know the rocker covers are a historic known point for leaking, so they will be done, but what about the sump? Not known for leaking as much? I an imagine it being a dirty job removing that, but is it difficult, while engine is still in car?

I think perhaps just do the rocker cover gaskets first, then look at sump if still leaking

#6 boostin

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 7:24 AM

Normally no, the sumps are pretty good. It's probably coming down from the kidney plate or rear main seal (rear crank seal).
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#7 Scoobydoo

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 7:40 AM

Ok.. I know the kidney plate seal is normally changed if / when you do a clutch, but what about otherwise? And the rear main seal.. also PITA normally?

#8 boostin

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 7:44 AM

Yeah, either motor out or trans/gearbox out. Some of those kidney plates were plastic, and the oil seeps through the plastic! If that's the case, get a new plate. They've all been superceded to metal plates now, but you need new bolts too.
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#9 Scoobydoo

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 7:47 AM

But generally, that point of oil leak wouldn't cause oil onto the exhaust though would it? That would point more to rocker covers?

#10 boostin

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 7:59 AM

Correct.
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#11 Scoobydoo

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 2:17 AM

Ok so I've got a majority of the parts now, but as you said, the sway bar links were over $100 each from subaru so will find some alloy ones, or see if anybody has some.

Can you tell me what's involved with changing the steering rack ends? Not sure about this one.

Also, am I right in thinking to change the inner CV boots, you need to remove the axles? I did this when replacing the outer ones on a previous car, as it was just easier than doing it on the car, but I'm guessing it would actually be required to remove them, to change the inner ones?

#12 p33t

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 3:47 AM

If you don't mind an added bit if noise, I've got some ball bearing links you can have for cheap.

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#13 Scoobydoo

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 4:28 AM

Oh yeah, that would be alright, what kind of noise though? They suit the D-style links? Like these:

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#14 DRFVDR

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 5:06 AM

rack ends are fairly easy to do, but will need a wheel alignment after to double check your measurering/ counting threads :)
jack up vehicle( unless you have a hoist ) install axle stands , remove road wheels, undo the nut holding the steering ball joint on,remove ball joint( preferable by using a ball joint puller NOT by bashing the hell out of it ) undo the the locking nut that holds the ball joint to the rack end, NOW either measure the length the centre of the ball joint to a piece on the rackend that is on both the new one and the old one ( i use the adjuster nut on the rack end) ALSO count the turns as you remove the ball joint and write it down ( i chalk it on the floor ), remove the rack end boot, now where the rack end fits the rack there will be a locking tab, straighten it where it folds over the nut, I use a pipe wrench to undo the rack end( easier than trying to find a skinny spanner to do it), install new rack end and then put it all back together, making sure that the count is the same and the measurement ( as a double check as I have been caught out by the new rack end having a longer thread and also a longer shaft ) this will get it close enough for it to be driven to get wheel alignment checked.....
Owns REAL old school Subarus :)

#15 Scoobydoo

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 5:10 AM

Well I don't have a ball joint puller.. so maybe that's something I can't do myself

#16 Drunkenmonkey

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 4:29 AM

You don't need one a trick I got taught is hammer the hub next to the ball joint and it jolts it out, it takes a fair bit of force depending how bad it is, I just did the rack in the bp and I had to hit them pretty dam hard
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#17 Scoobydoo

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 5:22 AM

Well I have friends with one so I'll borrow theirs. Doing a job with the proper tool must be easier than not using it. And the risk of damage is greater

#18 boostin

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 5:44 AM

Ball joint splitters are really only useful when you're not reusing the ball joint. They tend to damage the rubber boot.
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#19 DacerX

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 7:45 AM

and those balljoints are cheap as
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#20 Wiretap

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 8:54 AM

and those balljoints are cheap as


Genuine is around $100+GST/side
[20:30:58] <Pelvin> what are the handbrake shoes? are they only fitted on the rear?




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