Jump to content


Photo

After market sway bars......rule of thumb?


  • Please log in to reply
32 replies to this topic

#21 boostin

boostin

    Subaru spanner swinger

  • Contributing Member
  • 8609 posts
  • Location:Waiuku
  • Vehicles:
    • MY05 BLE Legacy 3.0R Spec B 6MT

Posted 11 September 2012 - 6:13 AM

When re-fitting sway bars do you have to torque to factory specs or just tighten the F outta of it?


Just tighten sensibly, ie don't swing on the end of a 1/2" 600mm power bar to tighten a M8 (12mm) bolt. Firm pressure with a 3/8" ratchet will be fine.
Posted Image

6 stars, 6 cylinder and 6 speed. 666. It's the devil car!!

#22 GTWagon

GTWagon

    Quad-cam

  • Contributing Member
  • 296 posts
  • Location:Palmerston,Otago
  • Vehicles:
    • 1991 Legacy Gt Wagon(White Whale), 1989 Rs Legacy(Sue) , 1973 Ford Gt Escort, 1980 Ford Escort Panel Van

Posted 23 September 2014 - 11:55 PM

I know this thread is abit old but didn't see the point of starting a new one. I recently did a track day at ruapuna. And found my car to have a bit of understear when pushed. I have 20mm gtb sway bars front and rear, my car did have lots of body roll so unsure if this was the cause but have started pricing 22 mm whiteline adjustable bars front and rear will this help or am I throwing money at the wrong areas. Cheers

#23 DacerX

DacerX

    Leone Lover

  • Contributing Member
  • 5567 posts
  • Location:Christchurch
  • Vehicles:
    • Shit Heaps

Posted 24 September 2014 - 12:49 AM

27mm motorsport impreza front and 22mm rear. just do it. But yeah 22mm is good all round.
Posted Image

#24 DCVR

DCVR

    Rally Driver!

  • Committee
  • 5103 posts
  • Location:Welly
  • Vehicles:
    • 1989 RS Legacy
      1989 BF Legacy

Posted 24 September 2014 - 3:10 AM

understeer is scary as shit especially in the wet. Over the years I've been able to dial it out slowly by experimenting with different dai swaybars, bracings, shocks, braking and 'power on' points.

Google 'subaru understeer' or 'how to dial out understeer'............

I found that there were so many conflicting views on whether to have a smaller swaybar at the front or larger that it was so damn confusing.

Best advice I can give is do your research, look at other people's setups.......and experiment.

Personally, I run a 24mm hollow swaybar on the front and a 21mm Whiteline adjustable on the back
Posted Image

#25 boostin

boostin

    Subaru spanner swinger

  • Contributing Member
  • 8609 posts
  • Location:Waiuku
  • Vehicles:
    • MY05 BLE Legacy 3.0R Spec B 6MT

Posted 24 September 2014 - 3:21 AM

A big front sway bar on the front of my BL is awesome on the street, but understeers like a mofo on the track. I vote stiffer bar in the rear and keep the front stock-ish.
Posted Image

6 stars, 6 cylinder and 6 speed. 666. It's the devil car!!

#26 GTWagon

GTWagon

    Quad-cam

  • Contributing Member
  • 296 posts
  • Location:Palmerston,Otago
  • Vehicles:
    • 1991 Legacy Gt Wagon(White Whale), 1989 Rs Legacy(Sue) , 1973 Ford Gt Escort, 1980 Ford Escort Panel Van

Posted 24 September 2014 - 4:24 AM

Coming out of the last corner under steer was abit scary. I am also going to be running stiffer springs and a antilift kit as well so not sure if that will help. But mainly wanted adjustable front and rear so I could adjust between sessions. So do I go 20mm adjustable in the front and 22mm in the rear or keep the 20s all round? Also do the anti lift kits help? Cheers for everyone's inputs.

#27 boostin

boostin

    Subaru spanner swinger

  • Contributing Member
  • 8609 posts
  • Location:Waiuku
  • Vehicles:
    • MY05 BLE Legacy 3.0R Spec B 6MT

Posted 24 September 2014 - 6:24 AM

Anti lift kits make the car more stable on acceleration. I doubt you have the power to make the front unstable. The trade-off of ALK's is less stability under brakes.
Posted Image

6 stars, 6 cylinder and 6 speed. 666. It's the devil car!!

#28 GTWagon

GTWagon

    Quad-cam

  • Contributing Member
  • 296 posts
  • Location:Palmerston,Otago
  • Vehicles:
    • 1991 Legacy Gt Wagon(White Whale), 1989 Rs Legacy(Sue) , 1973 Ford Gt Escort, 1980 Ford Escort Panel Van

Posted 24 September 2014 - 6:34 AM

Oh OK I thought the added castor helped with turn in. And with the factory springs it lifts the nose quite a lot makes the car look heaps faster than it is.haha

#29 DacerX

DacerX

    Leone Lover

  • Contributing Member
  • 5567 posts
  • Location:Christchurch
  • Vehicles:
    • Shit Heaps

Posted 24 September 2014 - 8:06 AM

just put in forester alloy housing with normal bushes gets the same results for a 1/8 of the cost
Posted Image

#30 boostin

boostin

    Subaru spanner swinger

  • Contributing Member
  • 8609 posts
  • Location:Waiuku
  • Vehicles:
    • MY05 BLE Legacy 3.0R Spec B 6MT

Posted 24 September 2014 - 8:23 AM

The difference to castor is 5/8 of fuck all. Do the rear sway bar and see how it goes. My RS has stock V3 WRX sway bars (dunno what size), and stock V3 WRX wagon springs on damper-adjustable Apexi shocks. At Manfeild on semi-slicks it felt very balanced and controlled, probably more on the side of understeer than oversteer.
Posted Image

6 stars, 6 cylinder and 6 speed. 666. It's the devil car!!

#31 Reuben

Reuben

    THAT guy...

  • Committee
  • 5848 posts
  • Location:Queenstown / Auckland
  • Vehicles:
    • 1998 Legacy GTB Limited
      1995 Legacy 200T
      1990 Legacy Ti Type-S

Posted 27 September 2014 - 4:33 AM

K-brace, alloy arms, and 22 front and rear is what beast runs, and he never understeers on the road. The track I'm I recall was slightly wollowy though. But I'm of the opinion that sways and struts are only half the recipe. What's the point in doing all that work, and neglecting the fact all your bushes up front are squishing around and not maintaining their ideal geometry. I noticed massive gains in beast just by installing the k-brace. Turn in and hairpins improved markedly. More gains could be had I'm sure by additional bracing, improving the strut brace and fender braces (but I shan't with beast, I like him how he is at the moment).

The rear lateral arm pillowball joints also improved stability massively, and going to the cusco gold 22mm sway bars improved high speed grip, which is the focus on the track if you think about it, I did not notice any bias change with the sway bars, but I did go 20 f/r to 22 f/r, equal change front and rear.

But yeah, I'd say focus on the rest of the handling package too, don't try correct anything by playing with only two components, make sure all else up front is up to the task before changing bias with sway bars.
Posted Image


<Shale>: Blighter doesn't really have an accelerator pedal, it's more just a loudness pedal. You can change volume, but you won't go any faster.


<mjlqtown>: (Southern US accent) I'v excised the demon! This car is now clear!


<Reuben>: I feel like when you stomp the throttle in Blighter, it's like you've startled an old man!

#32 GTWagon

GTWagon

    Quad-cam

  • Contributing Member
  • 296 posts
  • Location:Palmerston,Otago
  • Vehicles:
    • 1991 Legacy Gt Wagon(White Whale), 1989 Rs Legacy(Sue) , 1973 Ford Gt Escort, 1980 Ford Escort Panel Van

Posted 28 September 2014 - 7:25 AM

Plan is alloy arms, k brace, new springs, semi slicks, adjustable rear sway bar and solid rear links. Diff locking bushes subframe locking bolts
  • DacerX likes this

#33 DacerX

DacerX

    Leone Lover

  • Contributing Member
  • 5567 posts
  • Location:Christchurch
  • Vehicles:
    • Shit Heaps

Posted 28 September 2014 - 8:25 AM

Don't need semis at all just good road tyres.
Posted Image




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users