32 replies to this topic

[boostin]

When re-fitting sway bars do you have to torque to factory specs or just tighten the F outta of it?

Just tighten sensibly, ie don't swing on the end of a 1/2" 600mm power bar to tighten a M8 (12mm) bolt. Firm pressure with a 3/8" ratchet will be fine.

[GTWagon]

I know this thread is abit old but didn't see the point of starting a new one. I recently did a track day at ruapuna. And found my car to have a bit of understear when pushed. I have 20mm gtb sway bars front and rear, my car did have lots of body roll so unsure if this was the cause but have started pricing 22 mm whiteline adjustable bars front and rear will this help or am I throwing money at the wrong areas. Cheers

[DacerX]

27mm motorsport impreza front and 22mm rear. just do it. But yeah 22mm is good all round.

[DCVR]

understeer is scary as shit especially in the wet. Over the years I've been able to dial it out slowly by experimenting with different dai swaybars, bracings, shocks, braking and 'power on' points.

Google 'subaru understeer' or 'how to dial out understeer'............

I found that there were so many conflicting views on whether to have a smaller swaybar at the front or larger that it was so damn confusing.

Best advice I can give is do your research, look at other people's setups.......and experiment.

Personally, I run a 24mm hollow swaybar on the front and a 21mm Whiteline adjustable on the back

[boostin]

A big front sway bar on the front of my BL is awesome on the street, but understeers like a mofo on the track. I vote stiffer bar in the rear and keep the front stock-ish.

[GTWagon]

Coming out of the last corner under steer was abit scary. I am also going to be running stiffer springs and a antilift kit as well so not sure if that will help. But mainly wanted adjustable front and rear so I could adjust between sessions. So do I go 20mm adjustable in the front and 22mm in the rear or keep the 20s all round? Also do the anti lift kits help? Cheers for everyone's inputs.

[boostin]

Anti lift kits make the car more stable on acceleration. I doubt you have the power to make the front unstable. The trade-off of ALK's is less stability under brakes.

[GTWagon]

Oh OK I thought the added castor helped with turn in. And with the factory springs it lifts the nose quite a lot makes the car look heaps faster than it is.haha

[DacerX]

just put in forester alloy housing with normal bushes gets the same results for a 1/8 of the cost

[boostin]

The difference to castor is 5/8 of fuck all. Do the rear sway bar and see how it goes. My RS has stock V3 WRX sway bars (dunno what size), and stock V3 WRX wagon springs on damper-adjustable Apexi shocks. At Manfeild on semi-slicks it felt very balanced and controlled, probably more on the side of understeer than oversteer.

[Reuben]

K-brace, alloy arms, and 22 front and rear is what beast runs, and he never understeers on the road. The track I'm I recall was slightly wollowy though. But I'm of the opinion that sways and struts are only half the recipe. What's the point in doing all that work, and neglecting the fact all your bushes up front are squishing around and not maintaining their ideal geometry. I noticed massive gains in beast just by installing the k-brace. Turn in and hairpins improved markedly. More gains could be had I'm sure by additional bracing, improving the strut brace and fender braces (but I shan't with beast, I like him how he is at the moment).

The rear lateral arm pillowball joints also improved stability massively, and going to the cusco gold 22mm sway bars improved high speed grip, which is the focus on the track if you think about it, I did not notice any bias change with the sway bars, but I did go 20 f/r to 22 f/r, equal change front and rear.

But yeah, I'd say focus on the rest of the handling package too, don't try correct anything by playing with only two components, make sure all else up front is up to the task before changing bias with sway bars.

[GTWagon]

Plan is alloy arms, k brace, new springs, semi slicks, adjustable rear sway bar and solid rear links. Diff locking bushes subframe locking bolts

[DacerX]

Don't need semis at all just good road tyres.