[Wiretap]

As most people know, this project has been going on for a wee while now, and I have one nagging problem I can't solve. This engine likes to run a wee bit warm.

So far I have:
- Tried three different thermostats, 2 known good ones of a lower temp (78*C instead of the factory 82*C)
- Replaced the radiator with a factory EZ30 one instead of my custom alloy one
- Reversed, and even bridged out the heater core.

Amazingly, the engine never actually 'goes supercritical' even with no thermostat, and will happily sit at 89-94*C all day long with the thermostat shut (what is this I don't even), but I'm not keen on leaving it that way and I'm not sure my notoriously fussy tuner will be all too keen to touch it until I fix it...

These engines aren't the usual easy-fixed EJ20, so it would be much appreciated if someone could give me a few tips on where to look.

There could be some sort of reward if your suggestion manages to fix the problem!

[DRFVDR]

Wiretap, on 24 January 2012 - 10:28 PM, said:

As most people know, this project has been going on for a wee while now, and I have one nagging problem I can't solve. This engine likes to run a wee bit warm.

So far I have:
- Tried three different thermostats, 2 known good ones of a lower temp (78*C instead of the factory 82*C)
- Replaced the radiator with a factory EZ30 one instead of my custom alloy one
- Reversed, and even bridged out the heater core.

Amazingly, the engine never actually 'goes supercritical' even with no thermostat, and will happily sit at 89-94*C all day long with the thermostat shut (what is this I don't even), but I'm not keen on leaving it that way and I'm not sure my notoriously fussy tuner will be all too keen to touch it until I fix it...

These engines aren't the usual easy-fixed EJ20, so it would be much appreciated if someone could give me a few tips on where to look.

There could be some sort of reward if your suggestion manages to fix the problem!

What happens if you run no thermosat ?
I consider anything under 100 as Ok but thats just me

[Wiretap]

That is the one thing I am yet to try, I guess I should do that for the next test.

[boostin]

That 89-94 all day long, is this idling or driving?

You know H6 thermostats are different to H4? In what way, I don't know though. All I know is that they have different part numbers.

[Wiretap]

H6 thermostats are 82*C, H4 ones are 78*C, I swapped it out because it was going over the 100*C mark...

It sits at about 87-89*C while driving, rises to 94*C on a hot day while idling (today it was sitting at 89*C)

I know the water system flows all sorts of different ways to the H4 on the H6, but I'm not sure quite how they differ...

[boostin]

Wiretap, on 25 January 2012 - 7:36 AM, said:

It sits at about 87-89*C while driving, rises to 94*C on a hot day while idling (today it was sitting at 89*C)

Sounds normal to me...??

[Wiretap]

boostin, on 25 January 2012 - 7:47 AM, said:

Wiretap, on 25 January 2012 - 7:36 AM, said:

It sits at about 87-89*C while driving, rises to 94*C on a hot day while idling (today it was sitting at 89*C)

Sounds normal to me...??

My temperature gauge unfortunately points well above the centreline, and the lower radiator hose is permanently cold, so I don't think its normal...

[boostin]

What gauge/temp sender/ECU combo are you using? Do you have it set up the factory way, temp sender -> ECU -> gauge??

What are you using to get the coolant temp reading of 87 - 94?

Have you tried unplugging the fans and seeing if the bottom hose ever gets hot?

[Wiretap]

I'm using the 3-wire GD/GG sensor and a GD/GG instrument cluster, the ECU is calibrated to match that sensor, so it should all be in line.

I haven't unplugged the fans, but I did note when the fuse blew for the primary fan and only the secondary was running that the un-blown side of the radiator was seriously hot, IIRC the hose was still cold though...

[boostin]

Are you running twin sensors like the standard EZ30?

If one side of the rad is hot then you must have flow. Water transfers heat well, but not that well! I'm thinking you're thinking something is wrong when it's not. It's not uncommon to see factory setup EZ30's and EJ series hit over 100. I call overheating getting to 105 plus. Got a pic of the gauge when it's overheating?

[Wiretap]

boostin, on 25 January 2012 - 10:17 AM, said:

Are you running twin sensors like the standard EZ30?

If one side of the rad is hot then you must have flow. Water transfers heat well, but not that well! I'm thinking you're thinking something is wrong when it's not. It's not uncommon to see factory setup EZ30's and EJ series hit over 100. I call overheating getting to 105 plus. Got a pic of the gauge when it's overheating?

My variant of the EZ30 only has a single sensor on the passenger's side, but that is interestingg to note... I have no pic of the gauge, but it is pointing just below the upper 1/4 line on a GD cluster's temp gauge...

[DRFVDR]

Wiretap, on 25 January 2012 - 10:19 AM, said:

boostin, on 25 January 2012 - 10:17 AM, said:

Are you running twin sensors like the standard EZ30?

If one side of the rad is hot then you must have flow. Water transfers heat well, but not that well! I'm thinking you're thinking something is wrong when it's not. It's not uncommon to see factory setup EZ30's and EJ series hit over 100. I call overheating getting to 105 plus. Got a pic of the gauge when it's overheating?

My variant of the EZ30 only has a single sensor on the passenger's side, but that is interestingg to note... I have no pic of the gauge, but it is pointing just below the upper 1/4 line on a GD cluster's temp gauge...

The only other thing I would suggest if running another gauge as factory gauges are never the best for isolating a fault, you factory gauge may say 89-93 but it it may be 80-85
even a multimetre with a heat probe on it will help

[Wiretap]

DRFVDR, on 26 January 2012 - 12:49 AM, said:

Wiretap, on 25 January 2012 - 10:19 AM, said:

boostin, on 25 January 2012 - 10:17 AM, said:

Are you running twin sensors like the standard EZ30?

If one side of the rad is hot then you must have flow. Water transfers heat well, but not that well! I'm thinking you're thinking something is wrong when it's not. It's not uncommon to see factory setup EZ30's and EJ series hit over 100. I call overheating getting to 105 plus. Got a pic of the gauge when it's overheating?

My variant of the EZ30 only has a single sensor on the passenger's side, but that is interestingg to note... I have no pic of the gauge, but it is pointing just below the upper 1/4 line on a GD cluster's temp gauge...

The only other thing I would suggest if running another gauge as factory gauges are never the best for isolating a fault, you factory gauge may say 89-93 but it it may be 80-85
even a multimetre with a heat probe on it will help

The temperature readout itself comes from the Link G4 ECU, so I think it is fair to say it is reasonably accurate

[DRFVDR]

Wiretap, on 26 January 2012 - 4:42 AM, said:

DRFVDR, on 26 January 2012 - 12:49 AM, said:

Wiretap, on 25 January 2012 - 10:19 AM, said:

boostin, on 25 January 2012 - 10:17 AM, said:

Are you running twin sensors like the standard EZ30?

If one side of the rad is hot then you must have flow. Water transfers heat well, but not that well! I'm thinking you're thinking something is wrong when it's not. It's not uncommon to see factory setup EZ30's and EJ series hit over 100. I call overheating getting to 105 plus. Got a pic of the gauge when it's overheating?

My variant of the EZ30 only has a single sensor on the passenger's side, but that is interestingg to note... I have no pic of the gauge, but it is pointing just below the upper 1/4 line on a GD cluster's temp gauge...

The only other thing I would suggest if running another gauge as factory gauges are never the best for isolating a fault, you factory gauge may say 89-93 but it it may be 80-85
even a multimetre with a heat probe on it will help

The temperature readout itself comes from the Link G4 ECU, so I think it is fair to say it is reasonably accurate

i would still double check it but hey thats just me

[boostin]

DRFVDR, on 26 January 2012 - 6:35 AM, said:

Wiretap, on 26 January 2012 - 4:42 AM, said:

DRFVDR, on 26 January 2012 - 12:49 AM, said:

Wiretap, on 25 January 2012 - 10:19 AM, said:

boostin, on 25 January 2012 - 10:17 AM, said:

Are you running twin sensors like the standard EZ30?

If one side of the rad is hot then you must have flow. Water transfers heat well, but not that well! I'm thinking you're thinking something is wrong when it's not. It's not uncommon to see factory setup EZ30's and EJ series hit over 100. I call overheating getting to 105 plus. Got a pic of the gauge when it's overheating?

My variant of the EZ30 only has a single sensor on the passenger's side, but that is interestingg to note... I have no pic of the gauge, but it is pointing just below the upper 1/4 line on a GD cluster's temp gauge...

The only other thing I would suggest if running another gauge as factory gauges are never the best for isolating a fault, you factory gauge may say 89-93 but it it may be 80-85
even a multimetre with a heat probe on it will help

The temperature readout itself comes from the Link G4 ECU, so I think it is fair to say it is reasonably accurate

i would still double check it but hey thats just me

Agreed. Assumption is the mother of all fuck-ups!! I've got a digital probe thermometer at work for poking down into radiator filler necks to check temps.

And that was post 4k. Shit.

[DRFVDR]

boostin, on 26 January 2012 - 10:20 AM, said:

DRFVDR, on 26 January 2012 - 6:35 AM, said:

Wiretap, on 26 January 2012 - 4:42 AM, said:

DRFVDR, on 26 January 2012 - 12:49 AM, said:

Wiretap, on 25 January 2012 - 10:19 AM, said:

boostin, on 25 January 2012 - 10:17 AM, said:

Are you running twin sensors like the standard EZ30?

If one side of the rad is hot then you must have flow. Water transfers heat well, but not that well! I'm thinking you're thinking something is wrong when it's not. It's not uncommon to see factory setup EZ30's and EJ series hit over 100. I call overheating getting to 105 plus. Got a pic of the gauge when it's overheating?

My variant of the EZ30 only has a single sensor on the passenger's side, but that is interestingg to note... I have no pic of the gauge, but it is pointing just below the upper 1/4 line on a GD cluster's temp gauge...

The only other thing I would suggest if running another gauge as factory gauges are never the best for isolating a fault, you factory gauge may say 89-93 but it it may be 80-85
even a multimetre with a heat probe on it will help

The temperature readout itself comes from the Link G4 ECU, so I think it is fair to say it is reasonably accurate

i would still double check it but hey thats just me

Agreed. Assumption is the mother of all fuck-ups!! I've got a digital probe thermometer at work for poking down into radiator filler necks to check temps.

And that was post 4k. Shit.

I use a infrared laser one ( use it on top hose and bottom hose,I use it all the time one of the most use diagnostis tools I have really great for working out braking issues )

[boostin]

I've looked at those infrared ones. Still can't justify the cost though, given how much I won't use it!!